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              Traditionally photographic
            restoration has required photographing the original to re-balance
            the colour / contrast and then using a fine brush to restore scars
            on the image.
                | Restoring Pictures Digitally |   I admit this is a brief description because the point of this page
            is to describe some of the techniques you can use on a computer to
            restore photographs.
  First thing to bear in mind here is that the final product is a new
            image based on the original so that if it all goes completely wrong
            you can do it all again.
 Step 1. Scan the original:
 This will normally be done with a flatbed scanner, you can read all
            about the latest and greatest available ones in reviews on the
            internet or in a magazine. I have had good results from moderately
            priced units. My current one is a HP 4200C which is about 2 years
            old now but still churning out the goods.
 
  Scanner
            information should give you 2 resolution figures, one will be the
            optical resolution of the scanner, the other will be a much higher
            resolution. The higher resolution is done mathematically based on
            the optical resolution, the optical resolution is a measure of what
            the scanner can actually "see". In general the driver
            software is no better (and sometimes a lot worse) than digital
            imaging programs at creating the higher resolution images. Generally you should only scan up to the optical resolution of the
            scanner. You won't get any more "real" detail out of the
            image than that. Photographs vary quite a bit in how blurred they
            are anyway. You need to experiment.
 Step 2: Edit the picture:
 
  For
            this you need a program like Paint Shop Pro or Adobe Photoshop,
            there are lots of others and prices vary. From the things I describe
            here you can create a list of features to look for. I use an old
            version of Adobe Photoshop for some things and Paing Shop Pro for
            others. I have other programs but I always end up coming back to
            these two. It's a case of what you get used to. There are several things that you can do to pictures without
            changing the underlying image. Before you do anything else follow
            the golden rule SAVE YOUR WORK OFTEN. I know programs have undo
            features but you never know when the computer is going to hang up
            and loose your work. So save your work on a project in a series of
            files, number them or something like that so that you can always go
            back when you find you've made a mess.
 
  Brightness and Contrast are good things to start playing with.
            Brightness speaks for itself. When you increase the contrast you
            actually reduce the number of colours in the picture, In a black an
            white picture try increasing the contrast all the way and you will
            see that you have only 2 colours, black and white. As you reduce
            contrast more in between shades come available. Usually increasing
            brightness will mean that you need to increase contrast too to stop
            the colours becoming too washed out. Colour balance, colour to black and white translation are other
            things to play with. Sharpen is a function that works well with
            small images but doesn't have much effect on large images. In
            printed output sharpen has some side effects too.
 Again you should experiment, there is never a single answer with an
            image.
 My choice for black and white images is to scan in colour, save it.
 Convert to black and white in the image editing software, save it.
            Adjust brightness and contrast, Save it. Check if there are any
            other improvements.
 You can see here that adjusting brightness and contrast has
            actually removed some scratches at the top.
 If you have an older PC like mine then some of the transformations
            take a while to perform.
 Step 3: Repair damaged areas:
 One straight forward method is to crop the picture to remove bits
            around the edge.
 As you can see here cropping makes a good start to repair, the size
            of the triangular gash was reduced a lot.
 
  Repairing
            scars in the image can be a bit daunting but there is one tool that
            is essential to get the hang of and that's the clone brush. This
            allows you to copy a texture from one area of a picture to another.
            This way you can repair damaged sections with ones that look
            similar. You will have to adjust the size of the brush that you work
            with depending on the job you are tackling. Also you can zoom in to
            an area to work at very high resolutions easliy. Remember to save
            work frequently. Also when working zoomed in you should remember to
            zoom out after completing sections of work just to make sure that it
            still looks OK. This picture has a major fault (from my point of
            view). I was rushing to get it done, I was working zoomed in and not
            zooming out and was not saving frequently. We learn best from
            mistakes. Thi
  s
            picture was in quite a state. It had been folded, torn, repaired
            with tape (on the back). The image was converted to black and white,
            colour balanced and generally messed around. The reconstruction work
            was extensive.The big triangular tear on the right where the red
            tape shows through on the scan was replaced by some wall that was
            copied with the clone brush. The hardest part was reconstructing the
            eyes that were lost in a torn part. This was done initially by
            working gradually from the edges of the tear towards the middle and
            then copying eye features with the clone brush and also some
            straight painting. The results are not perfect but once printed it is so much better
            than the original. You tend to reach a point of diminishing returns,
            where you can continue making more and more changes but not making
            the final product significantly better. The work here took about 6
            hours and it was quite intensive.
 Step 4 Printing:
 Printing is a work of art in itself. Most printers that will do 720
            dots per inch or better will do a good job. The thing to look out
            for is the printer driver. You can spend hours getting everything
            just right on your screen, print it out and have a completely
            different picture on your paper.
 Professional equipment is expensive for a reason, it is all
            calibrated to a known set of colour scales, that means they print
            what they see. We usually don't have that luxury.
 One things to check out is whether the image looks the same on
            someone elses monitor. Some image editing software like Photoshop
            include monitor calibration charts. You can adjust brightness and
            contrast on your monitor.
 Another pitfall is printer drivers, they quite often do colour
            balancing of their own on images sent to the printer. This sometimes
            results in some odd colours appearing. Check out the printer driver
            settings, there is usually scope for limiting what it does for you.
            You may find it does a good job for you, in which case go with it.
 Summary
 There are magazines and places on the web that give advice on image
            manipulation, these can be useful but you just can't beat having a
            go. Make a few notes of what works and what doesn't, what has good
            effects and what you can miss out so that you can look it up and
            save time next time.
 The main thing is to enjoy it.
 By the way, the fault in the picture is with the tallest girl's
            sholder where it meets the sleeve. The one on our right is "puffed
            up", when zoomed in this looked like dirt on the picture and
            the one on our left got erased, it doesn't show too much on these
            small images but it is obvious on the printable one, oops. I'm the
            only one to notice it usually.
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